The first
restaurant I dined in as an adult was the Sunshine Inn, a vegetarian cafe in
St. Louis’ Central West End. It was 1990, and I’d been adopted by a group of
lefty activists that coalesced in and around the organization MoPIRG. As I’d
recently converted to vegetarianism, they were thrilled to introduce me to the
Sunshine Inn.
The Sunshine Inn
was rustic wood tables and art by local artists and an entranceway crammed with
leftist newspapers, pamphlets, and notices. The group of us sat at a large,
round oak table. There was a basket overflowing with bread from a local
bakery—whole wheat rolls studded with sunflower seeds. Tremendous bowls of
salad with chunks of tofu, broccoli, and cauliflower were passed, as was crusty
pizza and something called a mushroom curry pocket. I’d never before seen
vegetables featured as the main dish. I’d never eaten anything made with
tahini, as the salad dressing was. I’d never tasted spices used in such
eclectic abundance. These activists were the happy sort, not doomsayers; there
were moments of hilarity and great belly laughs. The women ate as heartily as
the men, and one woman, Alexandria, a hearty Greek, turned to me at the end of
the evening and, clasping her supposedly expanded waistline, pronounced that
she was sporting a “food baby.”
The
Sunshine Inn used to be on Euclid Avenue in the Central West End, a very old
neighborhood in St. Louis with gaslight-era griffin streetlights, the roads
still showing cobblestones in patches under the asphalt. There are rainbow
bumper stickers on the cars, Tibetan prayer flags on the apartment entrances.
In recent years, the neighborhood has slipped toward the upscale end of the
spectrum, and sadly, the Sunshine Inn has closed. But for the 12 years I lived
in St. Louis, the Sunshine Inn was a culinary sanctuary. We held political
meetings at Sunshine; I’ve had important discussions with friends there, over a
bowl of chick pea stew or veggie lasagna. I remember eating cauliflower-cheese
soup while struggling to tell a friend about my mother wasting slowly away from
anorexia, to find words for that which is unspeakable. I used to eat lunch
alone there so that I could write. My husband took a birthday lunch there, also
alone, during a period we still call ‘the waiting,’ when he’d ended his
relationship with his girlfriend and was waiting to know if he and I would get
together. It was a good place to eat alone. The wait staff wasn’t overly
attentive, and the tables were arranged such that one doesn’t feel conspicuous
without dinner companions. There was a little elevated section up a short
flight of wooden stairs. It creaked as diners walked by, but the booths were
comfy, and there was always a feeling of solidarity in an entire restaurant full
of people who’d chosen, for this meal anyway, not to eat meat.
Recent Comments